Rent vs. Buy Calculator: Find Your Break-Even Year
Renting isn't throwing money away and buying isn't automatically building wealth. Enter your rent and the price of the home you'd buy instead to see which one actually costs less — the year buying pulls ahead, the gap at 5, 10, and 20 years, and the equity you'd have to show for it.
Assumptions
These drive the result as hard as the mortgage rate does. Change them to match what you actually expect.
Sell before then and renting would have cost you less. Stay the full 20 years and buying comes out $122,507 ahead.
- Rent paid
- $644,889
- Invested instead of buying
- $161,928
- Portfolio at the end
- +$386,720
- Cash in up front
- $88,000
- Payments, tax, upkeep
- $711,139
- Invested when rent cost more
- $7,678
- Portfolio at the end
- +$8,258
- Proceeds after selling
- +$500,969
| Year | Renting | Buying | Difference |
|---|---|---|---|
| Year 5 | $97,819 | $117,622 | Renting by $19,803 |
| Year 10 | $198,782 | $192,982 | Buying by $5,801 |
| Year 20 | $420,097 | $297,590 | Buying by $122,507 |
Net cost is every dollar you spend, minus what you hold at the end. Both sides spend the same amount each month: whichever choice is cheaper that month invests the difference, so the buyer ends with sale proceeds and the renter with a portfolio. Lower is better, and a negative figure means you finished ahead of where you started.
Hidden costs of homeownership
Every rent-vs-buy argument that ends in "my mortgage payment would be about what I pay in rent" has already gone wrong, because the mortgage payment is not what owning costs. It's the part of the cost that happens to be on the loan statement.
Take the default scenario above: a $400,000 home, 20% down, at 6.5%. Principal and interest come to $2,023 a month. Property tax and maintenance add roughly $700 more, so the real monthly outlay is about $2,723 — 36% abovethe $2,000 rent it's being compared with. Those two costs never amortize away. They're charged on the value of the house, so they grow as it appreciates. The mortgage is the only housing cost that ever ends.
Then there is the round trip. Closing costs on the way in and the agent commission on the way out come to something like 8% of the price, and the commission is charged on the higher number you sell for, not the one you paid. Before you have gained a dollar, the house has to appreciate enough to cover its own sale.
Equity, meanwhile, arrives slowly. Amortization is back-loaded by design: of that first $2,023 payment, $1,733 is interest and $289 is principal. In year one the buyer above pays down about $3,577 of a $320,000 loan — roughly 1%. Nearly all of their early equity is the down payment they already had and whatever the market hands them.
The last cost is the one that never appears on any statement: the down payment stops being invested. Eighty thousand dollars sitting in a house is eighty thousand dollars not compounding somewhere else, and any honest comparison has to credit the renter with that. The calculator does — it hands the renter exactly the cash the buyer brought to closing and lets it grow at the return you specify. It does the same favor for the buyer in the later years, once rising rent makes owning the cheaper month.
When renting wins financially
Renting wins in four situations, and the first one dominates all the others.
You might move soon. Transaction costs are fixed and the years you own them are not, so the cost per year of a short stay is brutal. Two or three years in a house you bought is usually the most expensive way to live in it. If a job, a relationship, or a city is genuinely uncertain, renting is buying an option to leave, and that option is worth real money.
Prices are high relative to rents. When a home costs many times the annual rent on its equivalent, the owner is paying a large premium up front for the same shelter. Load the expensive city preset: buying doesn't pull ahead until year 18, and at year 10 the renter is still nearly $53,000 ahead — despite the buyer holding almost $500,000 of equity by then.
Carrying costs are steep. A high property tax rate and an older, maintenance-hungry house are a permanent drag that no amount of principal paydown offsets.
Prices go sideways. Appreciation is what pays for the transaction costs and the interest. Without it, the arithmetic collapses. The flat housing market preset shows why: after 20 years the buyer has built $174,654 of equity and is still $296,750 behind the renter who invested the difference. Equity is not profit. You can accumulate a large pile of equity and still have made the worse decision, because equity says nothing about what the money cost to get there or what it would have earned elsewhere.
There is also a case for renting that has nothing to do with the house: you have expensive debt. A mortgage is one of the cheapest loans available to an ordinary borrower, and a credit card is one of the dearest. Money routed into a down payment while a card compounds in the low twenties is being lent to a bank at a loss. The save-or-pay-off calculator prices that trade-off directly, and when debt consolidation makes sense covers what to do if the balances are too large to clear before you'd want to buy.
Break-even point explained
The break-even year is the year owning stops being the more expensive choice. Getting it right requires one honest definition, and the honest one is net cost: every dollar that left your pocket, minus whatever you're holding at the end.
To keep that fair, both sides are held to the same monthly budget — whatever the more expensive choice costs that month — and whichever side is cheaper invests the difference. Early on, owning costs more, so the renter invests the down payment on day one and the monthly gap thereafter. Late on, rent has often climbed past the cost of owning, and it's the buyer who invests the surplus. Neither side is allowed to quietly pocket the savings, so cash out is identical every month and the comparison turns entirely on what each one is holding at the end: sale proceeds and a portfolio for the buyer, a bigger portfolio for the renter.
That definition is what makes break-even meaningful, because it charges both sides for the things people leave out. It charges the buyer for the commission they'll pay on the way out and for the return their down payment isn't earning. It charges the renter for every month they lived somewhere without building equity. Neither side gets a free pass.
In the default scenario, buying breaks even in year 10. At year 5 the renter is still about $19,803 ahead; by year 20 the buyer is $122,507 ahead. The gap swings by well over a hundred thousand dollars, and nothing about the house changed — only how long they stayed in it. That is the whole decision, and it's why the honest answer to "should I buy?" starts with "how long will you be there?"
One caution the calculator will show you if you go looking: break-even isn't always permanent. When your investment return outpaces home appreciation by enough, buying can pull ahead and then fall behind again as the renter's portfolio compounds past the house. Break-even is a year, not a finish line.
And before any of this matters, a lender has to agree to finance you. That decision runs on your debt-to-income ratio — the share of your gross monthly income already committed to debt payments, including the new mortgage. It sets both how much house you qualify for and the rate you're offered, and the rate is an input above. Run yours through the DTI calculator before you shop, not after.
Frequently asked questions
Is it cheaper to rent or buy a house?
It depends almost entirely on how long you stay. Buying carries large one-time costs — closing costs on the way in, agent commission on the way out — and those are dead money spread across however many years you own. Stay long enough and the spread thins out while equity and appreciation accumulate; sell early and you never recover them. There is no universal answer, only a break-even year, which is what the calculator above computes from your own rent, price, and rate.
What is the break-even point on buying a home?
It's the year your cumulative net cost of owning drops below your cumulative net cost of renting, where net cost means every dollar you spent minus whatever you hold at the end — sale proceeds for the owner, an invested portfolio for the renter. Both sides are held to the same monthly budget, and whichever is cheaper that month invests the difference, so neither gets credit for savings it never made. Before the break-even year, selling would leave you worse off than if you'd rented. After it, each additional year widens the gap in your favor. The calculator reports the year and shows the running totals at years 5, 10, and 20.
What costs do people forget when buying a home?
Four, in rough order of how badly they're underestimated. The selling commission, because it's years away and charged on a bigger number than you paid. Property tax and maintenance, because they never end and they scale with the value of the house rather than with your mortgage. The opportunity cost of the down payment, which would otherwise be invested and compounding. And the front-loading of mortgage interest: in the default scenario above, $1,733 of the first $2,023 payment is interest, so barely $289 of it builds equity.
Does the mortgage payment tell me what owning costs?
No, and it's the single most misleading number in the transaction. Principal and interest on the default scenario above come to $2,023 a month, but property tax and maintenance add about $700 more, putting the true monthly outlay 36% above the $2,000 rent it's being compared against. A mortgage payment that matches your rent means owning costs meaningfully more than renting, not the same.
When does renting win financially?
When you might move within a few years, when the price-to-rent ratio in your area is high, when property tax and maintenance rates are steep, or when you expect flat home prices. Renting also wins whenever the money you'd have sunk into a down payment earns more invested than the house appreciates. The 'flat housing market' preset above shows the extreme version: the buyer builds real equity and still finishes far behind, because equity isn't the same thing as profit.
Should I pay off debt before buying a house?
Usually the high-rate debt, yes. Credit card balances cost more than a mortgage does, and every card payment counts in the debt-to-income ratio lenders use to size your loan and price your rate. Clearing revolving balances lowers DTI faster per dollar than paying down installment loans, since installment payments stay fixed until the loan is gone. What you should not do is drain the down payment to retire a low-rate car loan and then borrow the money back at a mortgage rate.
Is a house a good investment?
It's a leveraged, illiquid, undiversified asset that you also happen to live in, and the last part is what makes it worth owning. Leverage cuts both ways, the transaction costs are enormous compared with financial assets, and the returns have to cover tax, maintenance, and interest before any of it is yours. Buy a house because you want to live in it for a long time and the arithmetic isn't punishing. Buying purely as an investment is a bet you could place more cheaply elsewhere.
Related debt tools
Debt-to-Income Ratio Calculator
The ratio that decides how much house a lender will finance, and at what rate. Check yours before you shop.
What's a Healthy DTI?
Where the 36% and 43% thresholds come from, and which debts move the number fastest.
When Debt Consolidation Makes Sense
Carrying card balances into a mortgage application? The conditions a consolidation loan has to meet first.
Save or Pay Off Debt?
Whether the next dollar should go to a down payment fund or to the balance charging you interest.
Estimates are educational only and are not lending, tax, or investment advice. The mortgage is priced as a 30-year fixed, fully-amortizing loan with payments made on schedule; rent, home value, and the invested portfolio grow at the steady rates you enter, which no real market delivers. Those rates are effective annual figures, so a 5% return and 5% appreciation grow a dollar identically over a year. Income tax is not modelled at all — no mortgage interest deduction, no capital gains on the home or the portfolio — and homeowners insurance, HOA dues, and private mortgage insurance are not itemized, so fold them into the maintenance rate. The default rates are starting points to change, not forecasts.